‘’To me, the word sustainability defines the concept of the current generation's ability to meet our needs without compromising the ability of future generations to meet theirs.’’
24 JANUARY 2023
At Otrium, we champion a future where all clothing produced is worn. Our core mission is to connect unsold inventory with potential owners, ensuring a win-win situation for brands and consumers alike. Ultimately, we aim to prevent this unsold stock from ending up in landfills. Alongside this mission, we aim to empower our customers to shop responsibly through our collaboration with Good on You, a leading impartial organisation that rates brands against three key criteria - labour rights, environmental impact, and animal welfare. In line with this partnership, we’re showcasing brands for whom conscious fashion is at the very heart of what they do.
This month, we chat with Niels Eskildsen, CEO and co-founder of Designers Remix.
Sustainability: what does it mean to you?
“To me the word sustainability defines the concept of the current generation's ability to meet our needs without compromising the ability of future generations to meet theirs. But we are usually cautious to use the words sustainability and fashion together and prefer to talk about responsible fashion at Designers Remix.”
Can you tell us more about Designers Remix?
“Designers Remix was founded in Copenhagen in 2002 by my wife and me, based upon an idea of making full use of already existing resources by redesigning, remixing, and upcycling deadstock fabrics and garments.”
Deadstock fabrics are leftover fabrics used for other reasons and left behind for various reasons, initially causing fabric waste. By using this kind of fabric, we don’t need to increase the demand for newly produced fabrics, which is less harmful to the environment.
“Ever since the start, it has been our mission to make fashion better.”
What is your role at Designers Remix & how did you get there?
“I’m the Co-Founder and CEO of Designers Remix and you could say that it was coincidence and love that got me mixed up in fashion as my wife, Charlotte Eskildsen, is the creative brain behind Designers Remix.”
Where did the journey of Designers Remix start?
“To be honest, when we started back in 2002, we didn’t know anything about sustainability. We were very inspired by the concept of upcycling or creative re-use as we call it, where we could transform unwanted products into new exciting products. Over the years we started to develop normal collections but always with upcycling as our main design philosophy.”
Could you share a bit more about the challenges of achieving garment certifications?
“Before starting a certification process there are several things you need to have aligned. Firstly, it is important to have the buy-in from the management/owners as it will make the products more expensive. Do I have the buy-in from the design team as they will have less fabric options available? Is the supply chain certified? Your suppliers from cradle to gate need to be certified in order for the garments to become certified. Lastly, which certifications are actually making sense for the brand? And then you can start with the actual certification process…”
You’re currently working on getting garments GOTS certified, what does the process look like? ?
“We got the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) and Global Recycling Standard (GRS) certifications in late spring this year and we will have the first certified products arriving in stores on our pre-spring collection.”
The GOTS standard is the worldwide certification standard when it comes to organic textile production. It’s based on ecological and social values. The entire supply chain is reviewed and certified.
What is the biggest challenge in getting the full supply chain from cotton fibre to final garment GOTS certified?
“For us, it has been that some of our key suppliers who we have worked with for years weren’t certified. We try to persuade them that it would be a good investment for them, not only better for the planet, but also for their own business.”
What do customers value most about your brand and the garments?
“At the end of the day we are a fashion brand and we hope that our customers buy a product from us because they think it’s a beautiful garment. I hope that the fact that we try to make fashion better would make them feel even more attached to the product and take good care of it.”
You’re working on getting the official B Corp certification. What is your motivation to become a B-corp?
“B Corp is for us the ‘Rolls-Royce’ of certifications as it certifies not only a product but your company. We just received news that we have become B Corp certified with a certification score of 99.5.”
B Corp is a third party certification that meets the highest standards of overall social and environmental performance, public transparency, and legal accountability. It assesses the overall impact of a company. To become certified, a business must score 80/200 points divided over five categories: governance, employees, community, environment, and customers, next to changing the company articles of association. Companies need to re-certify every three years.
What are the most important learnings from the process so far?
“Certifications take time and it’s important to do your homework properly before you start.”
Where do you see your brand in 5 years? - What do you want to have achieved by then?
“Hopefully still making beautiful long lasting garments in a more responsible way. And if we all have had fun doing so then it has been a good ride.”
What will the perfect future of the fashion industry look like?
“Less fast fashion and more quality fashion. We need to buy less but better pieces of garments, that last longer!”
What is one thing you hope others will learn from your journey?
“It’s never too late to start being more responsible.”
How do you stay optimistic and persistent in the fight against climate change?
“By looking at my kids every day…”
Do you have a pro tip for extending the life cycle of your wardrobe?
“Read the care label!”
Do you have a book recommendation?
“Bill Gates ”How to avoid a climate disaster” is a must-read and “The Anomaly” by Hervé le Tellier has a really crazy ending (do not cheat and read the last page…).”
What’s the most important aspect you keep in mind when shopping for sustainable fashion?
“Quality – Quality – Quality.”
Do you have a philosophy or quote you live by?
“It’s translated from Danish but I hope you get the point ‘The only thing that comes from doing nothing are dust bunnies’.”
What’s the best advice you’ve ever received?
“It’s not advice but a quote by Robert Swan ‘The greatest threat to our planet is the belief that someone else will save it.’”
What’s a quick change people could make in terms of being more sustainable?
“Luckily there are so many small changes people can make, eat less meat, take the bike sometimes, and when it comes to buying clothes buy less but better.”
At Otrium, we are committed to a fashion industry where all clothing is worn. Our mission is to place unsold fashion items in the wardrobes of those who will actually wear it. This means we try to limit the clothing that ends up in landfills. Alongside this mission, we aim to empower our customers to shop consciously through our collaboration with Good on You, a leading impartial organization that rates brands on their sustainability efforts. Together, we’re showcasing brands making an impact.This month, we meet Jennifer Lui, the Vice President of Public Relations and Sustainability at ESPRIT.Where did the journey of ESPRIT begin?“ESPRIT was founded in California by environmentalists Susie and Doug Tompkins in 1968. Ever since then, we have continuously strived towards creating authentic fashion with mindfully designed collections’’.Sustainability: what does it mean to you?‘’I personally believe that it takes a comprehensive understanding of sustainability to generate a lasting impact that benefits people and the planet. We need both private and public sectors to invest in sustainability initiatives and develop concepts, just as we need every individual and consumer to promote more conscious decisions in all aspects of life.’’Can you tell us more about the more conscious fabrics you are using?“In May 2018, we committed to the Roadmap Towards Responsible Viscose as outlined by the Changing Markets Foundation. In order to responsibly source cellulosic fabrics, it needs to come from properly managed forests, instead of endangered or old-growth forests. In 2015, we partnered with the environmental non-profit organization called Canopy. Through this initiative, we are able to ensure our cellulose fibers are not sourced from at-risk or old-growth forests.” Viscose is also known as biobased silk. Silk is made out of animal fibers, whereas viscose is made from bio-based fibers. Viscose is made from wood pulp, typically from trees such as pine, beech, and eucalyptus.The name is derived from the word “viscous”, where cellulose fibers are transformed into viscose using a viscous liquid. “Recently ESPRIT became a contributor to the Organic Cotton Accelerator (OCA). OCA is an organization that aims to create a better, more transparent, and responsible organic cotton supply chain. The organization wants to do this by improving the livelihoods and incomes of farmers while educating them on new practices that are less harmful to the earth.”
OCA runs different programs, such as seed, farm, and innovation programs, where a global collective with brands, retailers, supply chain partners, civil society organizations, philanthropic foundations, and academics are united to help with to reach these goals.“Cotton makes up more than half of the Company’s total fiber usage. To secure the future supply of this raw material, ESPRIT is exploring in-conversion projects that support conventional cotton farmers’ transition to certified organic cotton. Working with OCA, we aim to ensure farmers have committed procurement and receive premium payments as well as participation in training and development using best practice methods across organic farming.”What achievements are you most proud of?“Our commitment to contributing to a circular fashion-industry puts focus and priority on extending the product life of our clothing. I am proud of ESPRIT’s collection of timeless, high-quality versatile pieces. It is perfect for someone who likes to mix and match, just like I do.Acting responsibly in all aspects of our business and being committed to respecting human rights contribute to our long-term success at ESPRIT. Examples are our Code of Conduct and transparent stakeholder engagement. We’re striving to operate responsibly along the entire value chain, by safeguarding the rights of our employees and the workers who manufacture our products.”What are you working on at the moment?“Our most recent project is the ESPRIT Futura Hub. We recently opened three hubs in New York, London, and Amsterdam. The three ESPRIT Futura hubs aim to create transformative change in culture, mindset, and business process, discover new growth opportunities for ESPRIT, and improve innovation performance.”What is the biggest challenge on the roadmap of improvements for you at ESPRIT?“Calculating carbon footprint is not an easy task, as ESPRIT works with external production partners only. In 2021, we rolled out its data system to retrieve carbon footprint data from all our suppliers, based on ESPRIT’s production volume. These so-called Scope 3 emissions are by far the majority of the brand’s footprint.
Together with our suppliers and partners, ESPRIT is working on solutions to improve our footprint. The next step requires the need to consider reduction targets. This will be one of ESPRIT’s biggest challenges within the coming years.”You are aiming towards circularity at ESPRIT. What are you doing to work towards these goals?“Circularity is the guiding principle behind ESPRIT’s strategy. We choose high-quality materials and fabrics that are ethically sourced, emphasizing recycled and more sustainable materials. This entails choosing non-synthetic fabrics and natural materials over synthetic, using recycled down feathers instead of virgin feathers, choosing recycled fabrics whenever possible, etc.
We consider whether these materials and finished garments can be recycled or repurposed to give them a second life. When incorporating recycled materials back into the production process, we are supporting a circular economy by reducing the need for more virgin raw materials.”How do you stay optimistic and persistent in the fight against climate change?“Everyone who takes an active step towards sustainable living is working towards the common goal – which is to preserve our planet. It can be in the form of being a more conscious shopper and avoiding overconsumption, choosing electric cars over conventional cars, having a greener diet, and encouraging hand-me-down children’s clothing amongst friends. I am quite an optimistic person in general and always believe that success is a result of a collective effort. Fighting against climate change is a collective action.”Do you have a pro-tip extending the life cycle of your wardrobe – how do you make sure your ESPRIT clothes last for longer?“To extend the life cycle of your wardrobe, choose brands that invest in making durable products. Another critical action is the way you wash your clothing. Small actions, such as lowering the washing temperature to cut down on overall energy consumption, have a positive impact on the environment.
Waste and excess inventory are built into the fashion industry’s model. Not only is waste created during the manufacturing process, but a huge part also comes from packaging and shipping practices. Poly bags play a part in the waste that is created, so we want to find a solution together with you!
Quick glance: The pilotWhat: All orders containing a single item will be shipped without a poly bag in a recycled paper envelopeWhy: Otrium will reduce plastic waste by keeping the poly bags in the loop How: By reusing or recycling the poly bags into high-quality materialWhen: Until January 2023 What you can do: Submit feedback directly to [email protected]
A short story behind plasticA poly bag is a plastic bag around a fashion item that protects it from dirt and water which they possibly encounter during their shipment and in warehouses. Sounds great, doesn’t it?
These plastic bags are great for protecting fashion items, however, plastics are harmful to our environment. Plastic sticks around in the environment for ages, threatening wildlife and spreading toxins. Plastic also contributes to global warming. Almost all plastics are made from chemicals that come from the production of planet-warming fuels (gas, oil, and even coal).
Plastic is a collective name for multiple materials and compounds that each have unique properties. You might have heard about PET (Polyethylene Terephthalate) which is often used for soda bottles or polyester which can be found in the composition of many fashion items these days.
Many types of plastics can be recycled at a high-quality level. This can be done only by recycling the same type of plastic in one stream. Unfortunately, plastic waste is collected often as one waste stream rather than separating the different types of plastics. As it’s difficult to sort these plastics after collecting them, the result is recycling to a downgraded material in most cases.
The majority of poly bags in the fashion industry are made from a plastic material called LDPE (low-density polyethylene). Hundreds of billions of polybags are produced for the fashion industry every year, and it is estimated that most of them go to waste. To recycle the poly bags on a high-quality level, they should be sorted and recycled as a separate stream of LDPE.
Otrium wants to make sure that the plastic of the poly bags stays in the loop and keeps its quality. Either by reusing the poly bags or recycling them into new high-quality material. We don’t want to put the burden of recycling the poly bag on our members. Instead, we want to keep the bags in our warehouse and in our loop. By taking off the poly bag before shipping we can create the potential of a waste stream where the poly bags can be reused or recycled into high-quality LDPE material again.
Interesting fact: The poly bags of Otrium are made out of 100% recycled LDPE.
Our responsibility At Otrium, we’re constantly working on making the fashion industry smarter and less wasteful. It’s our job to keep improving our practices in order to become a more conscious platform. Being aware of the environmental impact of plastics, we want to take responsibility and keep them in the loop. Empowered by our members who expressed their openness to receive items without a poly bag, we want to test ways of plastic-free shipping.
The purpose of this pilot is to reduce our plastic waste and to get a step closer to closing. We will be removing the poly bag from the items right before shipping them to you. This way we keep the poly bags in our warehouse which makes it possible to reuse or recycle them ourselves. The poly bags we will keep, keep their value since they are recycled with the same type of plastic. This will ensure high-quality plastic recycling.
We will collect customer feedback and evaluate if shipping with a paper envelope is enough coverage to secure the item shipped. Only together with our members, we can figure out new ways of plastic-free shipping and improve our practices. Want to know more? Read our FAQ undefined!